PFW SPRING/SUMMER 2016: BEST OF THE RUNWAY
3:50 PM
After New York, London and Milan, here we are at the last stop of our fashion journey around the world: Paris!
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| pic by Kevin Tachman |
Now it is time to discover PFW best runway shows, according to #TEB:
CHANEL
A self-titelend airport terminal installed in the Grand Palais: I am starting to belive that the word "impossible" will never fit the Chanel's vocabulary.
Karl Lagerfeld take us to a fancy yet funny simulation of an airport's atmosphere, where everyone is running around, rolling their suitcase in order to catch their flights...obviously wearing Chanel head-to-toe: models hit the runway wearing casual looking garments as comfortable cashmere sweaters, wide-leg trousers, 70s jackets or sculpted denim dresses.
Mr Lagerfeld does not forget Chanel's signature tweed pieces, which this time are embellished with crystals, ruffles and black bows.
To provide a humorous touch to the classic ariport style, the brand designed some unique accessories that soon will become a must-have for all the fashion-victims around the world: from the hard-case wheelie carry-on bags, oversized sunglasses, headbands and baseball caps to the silver platform shoes and flashy Teva-type sandals with tweed straps.
BALMAIN
Let's be honest : it is all about Olivier Rousteing & Balmain right now; and you do not even need to be a fashion expert to know their names.
All you need is an access to social media.
All you need is an access to social media.
With the H&M collaboration going on sale next month, Rousteing took over Paris Fashion Week with a new confident attitude...and another fierce looking collection featuring an army of it-models.
Rousteing might have selected a softer color palette, focusing on shades of nude, burnt orange and emerald green (unavoidable the black and white pieces), but he does not restrain himself when it comes to details and embellishment. The collection counts clingy silhouettes, 80's romantic ruffles, bondage style harnesses, crystals- and beads-applications, high-waist pants, corset inspired tops, cutouts and (obviously) sheer paneling.
As luxurious and beautiful as it looks, I still have doubts on :
1) how will this collection look on "common" people?
2) suede for summer?
1) how will this collection look on "common" people?
2) suede for summer?
Mark my words: Balmain is not for weak hearts.
VALENTINO
Focusing on the current humanitarian crisis that Italy is facing, by patrolling its Mediterranean coasts and saving African refugees, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli decides to broaden their creative research to Africa, hoping to express a message of hope with their art:
“We probably feel that the greatest privilege in doing our work is that fashion can give a message. We think every person coming here is an individual, and we can show that we can improve ourselves by understanding other cultures.” [Maria Grazia Chiuri]
“The message is tolerance and the beauty that comes out of cross-cultural expression.” [Pierpaolo Piccioli]
The designing duo showcases what we can call an alluring fusions between Roman and African aesthetics: the collection presents cropped jackets and straight skirts, long-line tattoo dresses and hand-printed pleathed mini dresses; in the accessory's department chokers, in metal or terracotta, and rigid leather bags decorated with animal heads appliques in ebony and silver.
CHRISTIAN DIOR
Raf Simmons brings Dior's Spring Summer 2016 collection at the Carré du Louvre, in a tent embellished with more than 400,000 purple blue delphiniums flowers: a dreamy setting for a collection that we can describe as feminine, soft and minimalistic.
The models hit the runway wearing curious daywear looks: besides the structured bar suit jackets softened by a flutter of pleats at the hem, the collection is all about semi-sheer organza dresses, shorts and crop-tops, usually paired with cropped torso-bearing sweaters.
At the models' necks, Simmons puts tight scarves or chokers, each carrying a single jewel and a metal tag with the 1947 inscription, the date of Dior’s revolutionary New Look collection.
The models hit the runway wearing curious daywear looks: besides the structured bar suit jackets softened by a flutter of pleats at the hem, the collection is all about semi-sheer organza dresses, shorts and crop-tops, usually paired with cropped torso-bearing sweaters.
At the models' necks, Simmons puts tight scarves or chokers, each carrying a single jewel and a metal tag with the 1947 inscription, the date of Dior’s revolutionary New Look collection.
EMANUEL UNGARO
After his successful fashion show in Milan, Fausto Puglisi conquests Paris designing a joyful collection for the Emanuel Ungaro's house: inspired by the brand's own rich archives from the late '60s, the Italian designer showcases a sweetly provocative floral collection.
On the runway: 60s silhouettes with trapeze mini-dresses and miniskirts, straight-legged trousers paired with frilled shirts, overcoats in patent leather and cocooning capes; the show-stopping factor has to be the psychedelic macramé lace embroidery, which manages to achieve a 3D effect thanks to coloured flower appliqués.
While the overall silhouette is romantic and casual, a soft touch of bondage is noticeable, as a few harnesses, positioned strategically to support embroidered bustier tops, add edginess to the entire collection.
On the runway: 60s silhouettes with trapeze mini-dresses and miniskirts, straight-legged trousers paired with frilled shirts, overcoats in patent leather and cocooning capes; the show-stopping factor has to be the psychedelic macramé lace embroidery, which manages to achieve a 3D effect thanks to coloured flower appliqués.
While the overall silhouette is romantic and casual, a soft touch of bondage is noticeable, as a few harnesses, positioned strategically to support embroidered bustier tops, add edginess to the entire collection.
written by: Stella & MsD
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