NYFW SPRING/SUMMER 2016: Best Of The Runway
11:55 AM
New York Fashion week has fully disclosed its Spring Summer 2016 fashion suggestions, with an overall success: as you can see MsD & I had plenty of reasons to be happy about, starting with Givenchy autoreferencial collection and Prabal Gurung touching showcase.
Now it is time to discover the rest of NYFW best runway shows, according to #TEB:
Proenza Schouler
Ruffles, ribbons, exposed shoulders and black-white-red palette: this collection Is mistaken for having a Spanish influence. Actually, Lazaro Hernandez said that he and his designer partner, Jack McCollough, simply wanted to explore his Latin roots. The collection is modern and original, but also very sensual, with the exposed shoulders becoming "the erogenous zone". Further exposure characterizes the final looks, made of mesh.
J. Mendel
Giles Mendel makes spring look hot with his latest collection: mixing his romantic aesthetics with a more explicit urban accent, the designer showcases a selection of garments made to grab the attention of the young fashionistas. On the runway feather-light organza dresses, improved by interesting graphic prints, asymmetrical micro-pleated skirts, paired with tunics or boxy tees, and bandeau tops matched with skintight wrap skirts.
Boss
For his fourth fashion week with Boss, Jason Wu got inspired by the German Bauhaus
movement. By focusing on the key aspects of the Bauhaus design, the designer presents
a sharply tailored daywear collection, composed by long sleeve-less fringed jackets,
ankle-lenght trousers and pleated light organza dresses, dyed in bright colors.
Calvin Klein Collection
Silk skimpy dresses were all over the NYFW shows, including on Calvin Klein's runway. It couldn't have been otherwise, since the slip dress silhouette is almost synonymous of the brand... Remember Kate Moss in the white spaghetti strap slip dress? In his collection Francisco Costa revisits the iconic Calvin Klein slip dress by mixing '90s grunge with '90s minimalism. During the show, the same silhouette is designed with different fabrics (silk, knitwear, leather, sequins), sometimes looking deconstructed and purposefully unfinished. Some dresses are accompanied with body chains to emphasize the absence of female curves.
Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang celebrated 10 years in the fashion business with a collection that defines, once again, the future of the urban style. The deconstructed short short bonded to a striped boxer base are one of the many objects of desire shown on the runway.
Rag & Bone
The English designers of Rag & Bone, David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, choose to build this collection on several memories from their youth. Our favourite pieces are the midi tube dresses and the hoop earrings, which were noticed by Wainwright at the Notting Hill Carnival in London in the late '90s.
Edun
The brand that has been promoting ethical production in Africa for the last decade, showed us a modern collection at the NYFW. This is inspired by the ceremonial dance costumes of the Kuba Kingdom in Central Africa. One of the pieces that captured our attention on the runway, is the black dress with fringed details: an example of the intricate African craftwork.
Jason Wu
Take note fashionistas, this is how you spell "minimal chic". Jason Wu takes over NYFW with a collection made to highlight his taste for details and sharp tailoring: ruffles, lace and movement become the collection leitmotiv. The color palette seems to favour matte colors, in the shades of emerald green, silver, black and a glipmse of fucsia and brown.
Reem Acra
Reem Acra let us delve into the timeless appeal of the Middle Eastern aesthetics: inspired by the tales of One Thousand and One Nights, the designer presents a consistent collection, composed by richly colored short dresses, caftans and floor-skimming gowns ready for the red carpet.
The attention for the details plays a major role in the final presentation, as the models takes over the runway looking anything less than dreamy princesses.
Marchesa
Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman described their inspiration as “a botanical menagerie of caged birds”: what else to define the fluffy feathered skirts, 3-D embroideries and sheer lingerie-inspired evening dresses in Chantilly lace that characterized the collection?
We can't tell if it was the ombré-dyed tulle trains in shades of sorbet or the romantic feel of sever al looks which made us fall for the collection, but for once it did happen.
Tadashi Shoji
Tadashi Shoji's inspiration for this collection is his native country, Japan, blooming at springtime. Many of the creations that walked on the runway are sheer gowns with floral embroidery. The designer explained his vision: “Everybody is doing sheer, Rihanna and all those people are doing it, and revealing a lot. But I don’t like that. So I very nicely hid everything.” Well... I wouldn't fight Rihanna, but Tadashi Shoji spoke rightly. And I really love his romantic and modest sheer gowns.
Carolina Herrera
The American designer showcased a collection that oozed sophistication and modern edge, while painted in delicate shades of pink. Taking inspiration from the world of flowers, Carolina Herrera plays with high-tech frabrics to communicate classical beauty in a more youthful way: Herrera takes us on a dreamy journey, made of floathing organza shirt-dresses, unexpected three-dimension embellishments and neoprene pieces, elegantly sewn onto transparent tulle.
A tasteful and feminine collection designed to appeal sophisticated yet romantic uptown girls: we might say that this is one of the best collection ever designed by Ms Herrera!
A tasteful and feminine collection designed to appeal sophisticated yet romantic uptown girls: we might say that this is one of the best collection ever designed by Ms Herrera!
Cushnie Et Ochs
Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs took a huge risk: designing a luxurious redefinition of hip-hop aesthetic. A challenge that brings out the best in the designing duo's creativity: models walk the runway with haugtiness, dressed as real music stars.
We are definetely going to see this collection at the next music events.
Brandon Maxwell
In the fashion world one day you are Lady Gaga's stylist and the next day a convincing designer: let's be honest, every woman would wear a Brandon Maxwell's design right now!
Inspired by the power of women, for his debut collection the designer presents sharply tailored looks, colored in black, ivory and dusty rose: from sumptuous ensambles to timeless long gowns, the designer brings to life the vision of a woman who is not afraid to stand out in the crowd.
Elegant and sexy at the same time: we are definetely going to see Brandon back on the runway very soon!
Naeem Khan
Inspired by the beauty of Mediterranean flora and by the grace of fashion's beloved
muses like Sophia Loren and Grace Kelly, Naeem Kahn makes NYFW bloom for a
dreamy instant. From the luxurious jumpsuits to the full-skirts ball gowns, we agree that most of the collection looked red carpet-worthy.
Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren's collection takes inspiration from the nautical theme. In the first part of the show, the theme is interpreted litterally, with some classic Ralph Lauren's pieces (the captain's hat, the straw bag, the white and blue striped shirt...). But soon after, the sailing idea is inferred in a more modern way, by using a bright red, white and blue color blocking and minimalistic silhouettes. The palette also conveyes patriotism.
Tory Burch
Tory Burch's show is about the concept of beauty growing as time passes. The designer models rough fabrics, such as crisp cottons, tweeds and even burlap, to create sweet silhouettes. She then embellishes some of the garments with guipure lace and/or botanical designs. In our opinion, all the fringed-tweed pieces stand out greatly during the show.
Coach
To be honest Coach was our least favourite show of the week: maybe the excessive use of micro-floral multicolored patchworks has disoriented us, but we are still enchanted but some of the leather pieces, which we would have loved to style in a less "hippie" way.
Hervé Léger by Max Azria
On the 30th anniversary of the house, Lubov Azria proves that Hervé Léger aesthetics is more than its world-famous bandage dress.
As the runway show discloses, it is clear that the minidresses might have kept the DNA of the iconic piece, but ultimately it is the introduction of trousers that really grabs the audience attention.
Experimentation run also over the technical department, as floral appliqués make their appereance to emphasize the waistlines. After seeing this we can state that Hervé Léger has definitely outdone itself.
Thakoon
Thakoon Panichgul created a contemporary collection, which he defined as “New Bohemia”. We are preplexed by the description, but we will remember this collection for the particular shorts. The designer cut lightweight material into micro shorts, which have a shape that lies somewhere in between running shorts and a sleep shirt (longer in the center, shorter on the sides). They are on our wishlist!
Tibi
For this collection Amy Smilovic decided to work mostly with cotton and silk, sometimes embellishing the fabrics with sequins. The fit of the garments is often relaxed or loose, but all the pieces still look very sophisticated. From the slouchy jumpsuits to the shiny tops, this collection is full of perfect pieces for the Spring.
3.1 Phillip Lim
For this collection, which celebrates a decade of 3.1, Philip Lim created mannish and sporty pieces, infused by a sense of romance: leather and scuba fabrics are mixed with organza, satin and silk, sometimes in floral prints. The pieces we like the most are the leather and bomber jackets, the fluid paper-bag waist shorts and the floral metallic jacquard open toe boots.
Narciso Rodriguez
We are truly captivated by Narciso Rodriguez relaxed take on spring: inspired by photographs of the ocean, the designer has created a collection set to emulate the peacefulness of water, with asymmetrycal crepe jersey and reversible linen, chiffon dresses. The decorations, made of mineral-dyed ellipses, seems to remind the natural movement of water.
Oscar de la Renta
For his second season as the brand new creative director, Peter Copping has prepared the ground for a fresh new start: the designer focused on providing an injection of youthful edge to house classical aesthetics. The brand's identity is respected in the design and the color palette pays homage to the house Spanish roots: among our favourites looks, red and black jacquard skirt-suits, lingerie-inspired pieces and asymmetric cocktail sheath dresses, embroidered with little pearls at the side.
Zimmermann
The collection takes inpiration from the 1800s, as we can see from the lace wide sleeves, the collars and the pale colors. What we love the most about it, is the mischievous nature of the pieces: underlying naughtiness shows through the classic fabrications.
Zac Posen
Zac Posen took over the NYFW runway with the partnership of Google’s Made with Code initiative: the attention for details make the clothes come alive, as ruffles, tiers, cutouts, tucking and mesh inserts brought excitement to the minimal aesthetics. The collection counts many diversified pieces, that are able to cover daytime occasions as well as evening formal ones.
Prabal Gurung
Check our review here: http://bit.ly/1QAP4lA
Check our review here: http://bit.ly/1QAP4lA
Givenchy
Check our review here: http://bit.ly/1EUonH7
written by: Stella & MsD
1 commenti
Greatest runway here, these are really awesome.
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